Automatic vs Manual-Wind: The Two Kinds of Mechanical Watch

"Mechanical" and "automatic" are often used as if they meant the same thing. They don't. Every automatic watch is mechanical, but not every mechanical watch is automatic. Here is the difference.

Mechanical: the family

A mechanical watch is powered by a mainspring rather than a battery. The energy runs through a gear train and is released in small steps by the escapement and balance wheel. Within that family there are two ways to wind the spring.

Manual-wind (hand-wound)

You wind it yourself by turning the crown, usually once a day. When the spring is full you feel firm resistance and stop.

• Pros: thinner and lighter, since there is no rotor. A clear view of the movement through a display back. A small daily ritual many people love.
• Cons: forget to wind it and it stops. Daily winding adds wear to the crown and stem over the years.

Automatic (self-winding)

A weighted rotor swings with your wrist and winds the spring for you. Most automatics can also be wound by hand to start them.

• Pros: worn daily, it never needs winding. Ideal for everyday and sports watches. The rotor's slipping clutch means you cannot overwind it.
• Cons: a little thicker because of the rotor, and it stops if left off longer than its power reserve.

Which suits you?

• You want to wear one watch every day without thinking: automatic.
• You want the slimmest dress watch, or enjoy the ritual: manual-wind.
• You rotate several watches: either, but a manual-wind watch is quick to start each time.

Our Elemental, Air Force and field watches are automatics that can also be wound by hand, so you get both: they wind themselves on the wrist, and a few turns of the crown start them after a weekend off. See how to wind and set an automatic watch and can you overwind an automatic watch.