How Often Should You Service an Automatic Watch, and What Does It Cost?

An automatic watch can run for generations, but only if it is serviced. Here is how often, the signs it is due, what actually happens during a service, and what you can expect to pay in France, the US and Australia.

How often?

For most modern automatic watches, every five to seven years. Some brands with long-life oils suggest longer intervals; older or vintage watches often need one sooner. Treat it like a car: the interval is a guide, and the signs below matter more.

Signs your watch needs a service now

• Its timekeeping has drifted well away from its usual rate, gaining or losing more than before. Check magnetism first: see automatic watch running fast.
• The power reserve is shorter than it used to be, or it stops even after a full manual wind. See losing time or stopping overnight.
• The crown feels gritty or the rotor sounds loud and rough.
• Moisture or fog under the crystal. Don't wait: water rusts steel parts fast. Take it to a watchmaker straight away.
• It took a hard knock and has behaved differently since.

What happens during a service

The watchmaker opens the case, removes the movement and takes it apart. Every part is cleaned, worn parts are replaced, and the movement is reassembled and lubricated with the right oil at each point. It is then regulated so it keeps good time in several positions, demagnetised, and cased up again with new gaskets. Finally the water resistance is tested. Many watchmakers also offer to refinish the case and bracelet.

The oils matter most. Over the years they thicken and dry, and the pivots of the gear train start running metal on metal. Nothing looks wrong from the outside, but wear builds up inside until a part fails. A service every few years prevents that.

How long does it take?

An independent watchmaker usually takes two to four weeks. A brand service centre can take one to three months.

What does it cost?

Prices depend on the movement, the watch's condition and the parts needed, so always ask for a written quote. As a rough guide for a standard automatic without complications, such as one with a Sellita SW200 or ETA 2824:

• France: roughly 200 to 700 euros at an independent watchmaker, depending on the movement and the work. Brand services are usually higher.
• United States: roughly US$200 to US$400 at an independent watchmaker; US$600 to US$1,000 or more at a brand service centre.
• Australia: several hundred dollars for a standard automatic, and over A$1,000 for premium or complicated watches.

A chronograph or other complication costs more. A widely used movement such as the SW200 is cheaper to service and easy to find parts for anywhere, which is one reason we chose it.

Brand service centre or independent watchmaker?

• Brand centre: genuine parts and a service warranty, but slower and more expensive.
• Independent: often 30 to 50% cheaper and faster. For a common movement, a good independent is a perfectly good choice. Ask what is included: cleaning, parts, regulation, gaskets and a water resistance test.

Between services

• Rinse it in fresh water after the sea or the pool, with the crown screwed down.
• Keep it away from magnets: phone cases, laptop speakers, tablet covers.
• Have the water resistance checked every year or two if you swim or dive with it.

Bausele owners: our service network

Our watches come with a two-year international warranty. For servicing or repairs, Bausele works with independent watchmakers on three continents:

• Australia: A.J. Watch Repairs, Canberra.
• Europe: Uhrenservice Leon Zihang, Weiden, Germany.
• Switzerland: Watch Experience S.A., La Chaux-de-Fonds.
• United States: Stoll & Co, Dayton, Ohio.

Please contact us first at info@bausele.com with your watch model and where you are. We will confirm which watchmaker to use, how to send your watch and, if it is under warranty, how it is covered.